![]() Granted I only did a toggle or two before I set it up so it could have just been coincidence but curious if that can have an affect on how much load needs to be on the circuit for it to work appropriately. One other thing that isn't confirmed is that I noticed these issues after I setup the switch with the rest of my Luton Caseta wireless system. Black wire on switch => LUT-MLC and Red wire from wallĤ.Black wire on switch => LUT-MLC and Black wire from wall. Blue wire on switch => cap (no other attachments)ģ. Green wire on switch => copper ground wire in wallĢ. Does it matter which ends are connected to which on on the switch/LUT-MLC? My "circuit diagram" is as follows:ġ. My switch came with a LUT-MLC so I installed that in parallel but it doesn't appear to be having any effect. This seemed somewhat confirmed to me as I added my iPhone charger to the plug with my phone plugged in and the switch seemed to work just fine. Some quick internet research suggested that this was a load issue. At first it seemed to work fine but after a couple of toggles I noticed that sometimes the LED on the switch would flash red and the go back to a dull green. In that plug I have two floor lamps plugged in. I installed the PD-5S-DV-WH switch on a wall switch that controls a plug. Re-posting question with better formatting, didn't see the issue until after five minutes and couldn't edit Black wire on switch => LUT-MLC and Red wire from wall 4.Black wire on switch => LUT-MLC and Black wire from wall. ![]() Blue wire on switch => cap (no other attachments) 3. Green wire on switch => copper ground wire in wall 2. If I leave only one bulb is turning on fully, but first, it flickers for a minute. When controlling one of these load types, a LUT-MLC may be required, especially at lower wattages. In the other one, with the same type of led bulbs the light turns on just 50. The LUT-MLC load adapter is provided to help ensure proper operation of the switch with LED, CFL, fluorescent, and ELV lighting loads. Weve never tested using the LUT-MLC with any of the dimmers, so we dont know how this would affect the dimmer and the load. Hi everyone,I have 2 PD-WCL dimmers in 2 bedrooms. You would have to purchase it separately. Does it matter which ends are connected to which on on the switch/LUT-MLC? My "circuit diagram" is as follows: 1. The LUT-MLC doesnt come with the Caseta dimmers because its only needed with the Caseta non-neutral switch (PD-5WCL-DV). If you dim it or disable it, the power used goes down and can often bring the power usage low enough that 2 60W or 1 75-100W LED bulb won't light up when the switch is off.I installed the PD-5S-DV-WH switch on a wall switch that controls a plug. ![]() Obviously ideally you'd run a neutral to the box, but if you can't and you don't have enough lights to meet the minimum load requirement, the Lutron LUT-MLC adds a dummy load that simulates having a small incandescent bulb and allows the 2-wire dimmer to work properly with just a single incandescent bulb.Īlso, the reason that the Lutron are better about handling fewer bulbs is that the largest power user on an Insteon switch is the LED lighting. Minimum load capacitor for Lutron digital dimmers. This device provides capability for certain Lutron dimmers to control low-wattage loads from 0 watts up to the dimmer’s minimum rating. Essentially, it comes down to the 2-wire dimmer needing a minimum amount of load. UL Listed, CSA Certified, ENEC, IEC Compliant. If you have 4-5 bulbs in the switch though, that's enough load that it won't light up the bulbs (for most bulbs) and it'll work fine with it. Technically, you can indeed use the 2-wire dimmer with LED bulbs, but with just one it will ordinarily be enough current to also turn on the bulb. This means that either the current it used returns down a neutral wire, or for a 2-wire dimmer is sent through the bulb down the line. The reason this is a problem, and is with anybody's 2-wire switches (really just Lutron as almost nobody else sells 2-wire dimmers) is that the switch needs to power itself.
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